my favorite non VC watches from SIHH 2016

Without being too chauvinistic and pro VC it is safe to say that for most visitors or online readers the star of SIHH 2016 was the new Overseas collection with inhouse movements and changable bracelet/straps.

However, 23 other brands were exhibiting this year and for the 1st time the fair was open to 9 new independent brands from the cutting edge DeBethune, Urwerk and MB&F to the more classical Laurent Ferrier.

Here is a purely personal pick of what I really liked. Those who know me won't be surprised to see a majority of small boutique makers. Why? Because as we all know these are hard times and most of the major brands were playing it really safe whilst the independents had their *@£& # on the table with realy creative offerings. So here is my pick in alphabetical order:


Audemars Piguet: Offshore Diver Chronograh

As much as I'm a fan of the Royal Oak the beefed up version never spoke to me... until now. AP presented this year a chronograph version of the Offshore Diver with flashy dials and the lime green model really REALLY speaks to me!


my favorite non VC watches from SIHH 2016


DeBethume: DB25 World Traveller

De Bethune is probably one of the most technically exciting brands out there with unequaled finishing and I don't understand why they don't get more love! Their new DB 25 World Traveller is in fact a world premiere as it is both a world time (the cities and time zones can be chosen by the owner) and a GMT which is indicated via the rotating sphere which goes from pink to black depending if it is indicating night time or daytime!


my favorite non VC watches from SIHH 2016


my favorite non VC watches from SIHH 2016


Laurent Ferrier Galet Square Boreal

Ex product developer at Patek Philippe Laurent Ferrier set out to create his own brand 5 years ago. he mixes rather classical designs with amazing details mixed with horologically avant gard movements such as in the Boreal model which has a sector dial reminicent of the watches from the 30s but treated with superluminova. The automatic caliber housing this model features a direct double impulse escapement!

my favorite non VC watches from SIHH 2016




MB&F Horological Machine 6 in Saphire

MB&F don't really need an introduction but this HM6 is about as crazy as it gets! time is indicated via two rotating globes in the front part with a central tourbillon and the rotors directly opposit the time indication. Dressed in saphire this piece is just jaw dropping


my favorite non VC watches from SIHH 2016


Moser &Co: Endeavour Concept Funky Blue

I have to admit that I was never a Moser fan. I couldn't understand their philosophy and find most of their timepieces rather bland. However, the Endeavour Concept is really interesting both in terms of case design and dial.  I love the fact that they feel comfortable enough not to even put their name on the latter! The "funky blue" (that's the name they've given to it) dial is stunning. I just wish it cam in steel


photo courtesy of The Horophile

my favorite non VC watches from SIHH 2016


Urwerk: EMC Time Hunter

Due to their strong designs, WIS mistake Urwerk as a design brand whereas horologically these guys are pure bliss (and the fact that co-founder Felix Baumgartner started his carreer at VC is proof :-) )

The EMC Time Hunter is artificial intelligence on the wrist. The crank on the right side of the case enable the wearer to power up a generator which via an optical system will then calculate both the accuracy and the amplitude of the watch indicated via an opening on the top left hand side of the watch. The owner can then manually adjust accuracy and amplitude via a small screw on the back!! 


my favorite non VC watches from SIHH 2016


Thanks alex for this post
01/26/2016 - 13:26

That's why you're by far the best "community manager" , because you're open minded and appreciate what other can do and stay a true horology amateur. yes

The Overseas is the star of the SIHH, the reception I see is extremely positive, people want one, and those ultra thin, grrrr ! There is a brand that traditionnal amateurs do not like so much because of crazy prices, and a lot of marketing but it is to me one one of the most important and innovative of the last 20 years, it's Richard Mille.Most of them are too big for me and not my taste, but they just launched an Ultra Thin, which looks perfect with the traditionnal tonneau shape.Loved Cartier mysterious Tourbillon too.And because it's provocative, smart and silly at the smae time the "Alp Watch" from Moser, internet trolling in a watch, love that devilFrançois

I'm with you on the AP Diver Chronograph, Alex!
01/26/2016 - 14:13

I prefer the blue-dialed and yellow-accented version though.


The mighty
01/26/2016 - 14:21


The mighty

This one put my aplomb to the test  cheeky Steel, 38mm, rare! heart

The mighty

Greubel Forsey were great also, some A. Lange, De Bethune too and many others but my favorite remains a VC; not an Overseas though devil



Alex, thanks for this post. You have always been honest with your views
01/26/2016 - 14:26

and you have always loved the independents.

I love the De Bethune. Amazing.

I also love the LF Galet. Classical with a twist.

From Mb & F, I love their Sheman. 

I am begininning to warm up to Moser, and some of their pieces are really nice and cool.

Urwerk is very interesting, and I will find time to read up on this new creation of theirs. You did share a pic of Felix Baumgartner with the 1955 CDV Chrono few weeks ago...

Also, I wish to add that I liked the following watches: Lange's Dato QP with
01/26/2016 - 14:53

now Tourbillon very impressive, as is their new Richard Lange Jumping Seconds.

I like some of MB's offerings. Their strategy to provide affordable timepieces with complications might just work very well. 

I also like the new Cartier Drive, especially the basic time-date only piece and the version with dual time. I like this a lot more than the Cle and Ballon Ble for men.


Re: Also, I wish to add that I liked the following watches: Lange's Dato QP with
01/26/2016 - 15:28

 Lange's Dato QP with

Check this video for the Jumping seconds:

And this, for the De Bethune DB27 D Polo Edition, the watch impossible to scratch:




Re: my favorite non VC watches from SIHH 2016
01/28/2016 - 08:04

Thanks Alex.

Many watches by other brands are wonderful in SIHH every year

but VC is No.1 to me.