the Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater on www.thewatches.tv. When they show him holding the watch in his hands and turning it around, one really gets a feel for how thin and elegant this piece is. Photos cannot do justice to what this video can show.
10/05/2013 - 10:07
Thanks a lot, what a terrific watch !
10/05/2013 - 16:06
Still prefer the old school diameter of 36mm, but on the actual offer of every brand what an amazing piece ! What a dial; how elegant is that?! Can't wait to see a CEP or a white gold version of it. Thanks for sharing kk !
Neck and neck with the Ref. 4261
10/05/2013 - 20:08
Our newest 1731 minute repeater appears to be very close in overall slimness to the vintage Ref. 4261 made during the 1940s and 50s: 1731 case overall thickness - 8.09 mm, movement thickness - 3.90 mm, case width - 41 mm. 4261 (with 13" JMV extra-flat calibre) case overall thickness - 8.0 mm, movement thickness - 3.1 mm, case width - 37 mm. These vintage measurements are from Antiquorum. They also cite an overall case thickness for the 4261 without glass at 5.8 mm, but I'm assuming the 1731 measurement quoted in the introductory press release includes it's crystal? The clear advantage the modern calibre 1731 enjoys, aside from a silent strike governor, is it's Manufacture status, whereas the still-superb extra-flat 13" JMV minute repeater was based upon a LeCoultre ebauche as modified by Dubois-Depraz. There was also a smaller 12-ligne version found in a 35 mm x 10 mm case.
Was it very normal or the accepted norm in those days for brands
10/05/2013 - 20:43
Such as VC to work on beaches etc.? We're PP movements also made the same way?
10/06/2013 - 01:14
Piguet "ébauche" for Ultra Thin at Patek , JLC at Vacheron. Minute repeater I don't know. The chronograph Patek 13-130 is based on a Valjoux (wondefully modified, man must admit), the follower based on Lemania and so on. Same for Vacheron. At that time whoever made the basis had no importance, the importance was the finish quality; and they were at the highest level for both. This "manufacture" trend is maybe 10 years old, not much more. A watch is a lot of different specialist of different area working together. Before they were separate entities, this trend forced brands to buy these specialist or develop it. And self developping a minute repeater or a chronograph is extremely demanding. cheers Francois
Thanks. Appreciate your comments.
10/06/2013 - 09:48
As Francois describes so well,
10/07/2013 - 18:46
Characteristic of Swiss horology for a couple of centuries was a very decentralized manufacturing process, with specialists supplying raw or completely finished movement ebauches, as well as outside suppliers of cases and dials, etc. Research the term "etablisseur" for a better understanding of this system. Personally, I think it was a marvelous concept that ensured the economic benefits of this very dominant industry were distributed throughout the state rather than concentrated in a few hands. FWIW, it wasn't until 1998 that VC purchased the research and development atelier Haute de Gamme in Le Sentier, which previously had worked for them as a confidential contractor. LOL, now that the newest novelties have been released, I understand why our request to visit HDG back in June was rejected .