be great if you could have the watch opened and provide the case and movement numbers, like that we can find the ref and date of production
You are correct. It does contain a 1003 movement.
The bezel is called a "hobnail" design.
The watch is 31mm diameter.
that the caliber is 1003. Have you owned one of the ref 33076?
All the best Kent
I have seen them from time to time. The "hob-nailed" bezel is quite unique. But it's a bit small for me at 31mm.
The first image that pops in my head upon hearing the term "hobnail" are the boots worn by early mountaineers. The word first appeared in the English language in the late 16th century as a cobbler's term and the hobnail itself is a simple iron nail with a rounded head that was pounded into the leather soles of sturdy boots to give traction. I remain amazed at the feats accomplished by the pioneer climbers who achieved first ascents around the world with hobnail boots and wooden axes.
Hobnails also became synonymous with jackboots as symbols of military oppression and their image thus adorned a few propoganda posters.
The word transitioned beyond footwear when "hobnail" was used to describe a similar round projection applied to the surface of pottery and glassware.
It was inevitable that, as a descriptor, it would find its way into the lexicon of watch decoration. Clous de Paris was the term for a guilloche technique which created tiny pyramidal shapes. The English watchmakers called this a hobnail treatment. Some brands, notably PP, have models that are defined by their hobnail bezels but others have joined this stylistic fraternity.
All of this is provided to amuse my fellow THL'ers, and hopefully in an entertaining manor suggest that the bezel of our featured watch is actually of a reeded pattern .
For your lucid and detailed explanation of hobnails. I love that you buried the lede (or, in more modern parlance, saved the spoiler for the end). I am glad you didn't just say "Hey, this is reeded, not hobnailed". This topic is somehwat near and dear to my heart, because my very first introduction to haute horologerie was via a PP with what was, at the time, the most captivating hobnail bezel. I always associate that bezel with them.
Interestingly, in Chambers Book of Etymology from 1904, Hobnail can also be used to denote "a clownish man; so called because of the hobnails on his shoes." One is left to wonder how hobnailed shoes because synonymous with clownishness?
The iron nails were applied to enhance traction in soft ground like snow and dirt, but were notoriously slippery on smooth surfaces. I can just imagine the country gent on an occasional visit to town skittering down the polished cobblestone streets . Perhaps this amused the town sophisticates, like the modern banana peel gag?
This is some good thoerizing. This does have a very "turn of the century" ring of truth to it.
Hello Tobias. and welcome to the Hour Lounge. A very nice find and the Calibre 1003 is a great addition to any collection. There is something very sophisticaed about the hobnail bezel. Certainly more common a in the 80s and 90s, but a very classy look in my opinion. If you have an opportunity to show a wrist shot, we always like to see those. Wear it in good health.
It's a beautiful piece. Thank you for sharing this photo.
thank you so much for all your help and for the very interesting discussion of hobnails!